Margaux Brasserie is a True Pearl

August 13, 2024
Photos by Patricia Puccinelli

The name Margaux originated in medieval France and is a derivative of the French word for pearl. To this day, pearls bring to mind beauty and elegance, making Margaux the perfect name for The Corners of Brookfield’s newly opened brasserie. 

Entering Margaux, we were quickly drawn to its large, granite-top bar, which features welcoming bartenders and spacious seating. For guests wanting a bit more privacy, several velvet soft-seating areas are adjacent to the bar. We arrived in time to enjoy Happy Hour which runs Monday through Thursday from 4 pm to 6 pm and Friday through Saturday from 8 pm to 9 pm.  

Bartender pours champagne
Alan recommended a flute of champagne to begin our experience.

Sitting at the end of the bar gave us a great view of the restaurant and we felt transported to Paris. The restaurant’s vibe is French chic with a modern twist. Traditional French brasserie-colored deep teal and terra cotta walls give the restaurant a warm and inviting ambiance. Pendant lamps with showgirl lampshades add a sassy touch over several booths. Alan, our gregarious bartender, recommended a glass of Inspiration 1818 Charles Le Bel by Billecart-Salmon Brut champagne, which was an excellent suggestion.  

Several years ago, I accepted an 18-month expatriate assignment in a town 45 minutes northeast of Paris. My family, friends and I spent many beautiful evenings dining at L’Ermitage in Ermonenville, a quick five-mile drive from our home. Despite all of their delicious offerings, I often began my meal with a kir royale aperitif, then ordered escargot, au poivre filet mignon and ended with profiteroles. I replayed my dinner choices at Margaux to bring back such fond memories. 

Each dish’s presentation alone made my mouth water. For the escargot vol-au-vent, wine-braised burgundy snails sat in small hollowed-out puff pastries and were covered in mushroom velouté or light cream sauce. Vol-au-vent means “flying in the wind” and the pastries lived up to their light and airy name. Micro-greens added just the right pop of color and texture. My entrée of black pepper-crusted or au poivre filet medallions and potato purée was served on a brandy peppercorn sauce that caused the fond memories of L’Ermitage to fill my mind and taste buds. The filet was cooked perfectly to my choice of medium temperature and cut easily. 

My friends both chose different entrées so we could taste a variety of Margaux’s offerings. Jennifer selected the halibut meuniere. The lightly dredged Pacific halibut was served in browned butter lemon-caper sauce nestled on buttery French beans and topped with toasted macadamia nuts, micro-greens and edible flowers. The halibut was flaky with a delicate flavor and the toasted macadamia nuts complemented the dish perfectly. Tracy chose the Maine lobster salad croissant with a hint of lemon that brought out the lobster’s flavor without overwhelming it. The croissant was light and flaky. She commented that the fries could have benefited from more seasoning. We paired our entrées with Chaumeau Balland Sancere, a dry white wine from France’s Loire valley. 

Dessert: fifteen-layer crepe cake
Dessert: fifteen-layer crepe cake

Margaux does not offer profiteroles, the crispy hollow choux pastry balls filled with ice cream or custard and drizzled with chocolate sauce I loved at L’Ermitage, so we shared the fifteen-layer crepe cake. The paper-thin crepe layers were filled with delicious sweet cream. Strawberries, blueberries and blackberries topped the cake and were covered in glacage, a shiny sugar coating. The cake was drizzled with strawberry coulis sauce. We all fell in love with the flavors of this simple yet beautiful dessert. Is it my imagination or did the strawberry coulis form a heart on the plate?  

While we were enjoying our meals, the host seated a couple in a booth across the restaurant from us. After glancing through their menus, they furtively caught one another’s eyes before ordering. It was clear they were a bit uncomfortable with the restaurant’s pricing. Hors d’oeuvres range from $17 for the escargot to $32 for the snow crab shrimp cocktail. Hors d’oeuvres to share include charcuterie plates from $18 to $38 and a seafood platter of Kumamoto oysters, Alaskan snow crab claws and colossal Gulf shrimp for $77. Soup and salads range in price from $11 to $16. Entrées start at $19 for a hand-made burger with gruyere cheese and range to $52 for the prime hangar steak with foyot sauce, a variation of classic Béarnaise sauce. Their three desserts are each $12.  

While a bit pricier than other nearby restaurants, Margaux adds a high-quality dining option to the area. We found our meals reasonably priced, especially the lobster salad given how difficult it is to find fresh Maine lobster here.      

Margaux does not miss details. Guest bills are presented on small porcelain plates accompanied by a slim gold pen. 

Because Abbey, our charming server, told us the bouillabaisse was extraordinary, I created an opportunity to meet a friend for lunch at Margaux. The lunch and dinner menus are similar, but the lunch menu is slightly more limited.  

We began with the cheese gougéres made with whipped goat mascarpone cheese and Provence black summer truffles encased in pate á choux puff pastry topped with burnt honey butter and chopped pistachios. They were delightful. Abbey’s recommendation of bouillabaisse was not exaggerated. It was the best I have tasted, including in Paris. The bouillabaisse featured sea scallops, colossal shrimp, halibut and mussels in a thick saffron tomato broth served with a grilled baguette slathered with Provençal rouille, a thick saffron-spiced sauce. Our server gave us warm, fresh bread to soak up every bit of the delicious, thick tomato broth. 

Margaux Brasserie is owned by local restauranteur Kristyn Eitel. Eitel is CEO of the Toro, Toro, Toro restaurant group, which according to its website, has been serving the Milwaukee and Madison communities since 1993 with the opening of the original Fuel Cafe on Center Street. The company also owns Fuel Cafe in Walker’s Point, HiHat Lounge & The Garage, Finks and BelAir Cantina. Margaux’s hours are posted on their website and include brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 9 am to 3 pm.   


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